Here's Your Gecko
Crested Gecko Care Sheet
Housing :  Crested geckos are arboreal so they will require a cage with some height.  We start our hatchlings off in small critter keepers for the first month or so to be sure they get a good start.  A smaller cage makes it easier for them to find their food and water dishes as well as finding live prey items.  As they grow the size of the enclosure changes.  Our adults are kept in 18"x18"x24" Exo Terra cages.  I would not recommend keeping more than an adult trio in a cage this size.  Always make sure to provide plenty of climbing vines, branches and plants in the enclosure.  We also provide each cage with a hide.  The thing to keep in mind is providing plenty of locations the cresties can go to be away from each other if they want to.  We have noticed ours tend to congregate at times and at other times they go their separate ways.  In our experience male cresties do not do well when housed together, yes, the boys like to fight.  So, individual cages will have to be provided for them.  If you keep males with females year round odds are you will end up with the girls laying eggs all the time and this is not healthy.  We have also seen a tendency for the females to get a bit moody at times, with the occasional spat with another female.  Anytime you keep cresties together you need to monitor them to be sure they are getting along.  If you don't keep an eye on this you could end up with some injured pets.  We use several different cage substrates, including coco fiber, grass carpet and paper towels.  Paper towels for the babies since it makes it real easy to see if they have normal stools (yuck, I know, but necessary).
.
Feeding :  We feed our crested geckos Repashy Crested Gecko Diet (CGD, MRP), as well as dusted crickets.  For those not familiar with CGD it is food in powder form that you just add water to and mix up.  A little bit of the CGD goes a long way as these critters don't eat a whole bunch.  After a little while you will get the mixing process down just right and will know just how much to feed the little guys.  Here at HYG we feed ours on an every other day schedule.  For example :  Monday everyone gets fresh food and water, Tuesday the food is left in the cage (water added and re-mixed if need be) and fresh water is provided, Wednesday fresh food and water and so on for the rest of the week.  We recommend feeding crickets or dubia roaches once a week.  So, instead of feeding CGD one of the days during the week we supplement the dusted bugs instead.  As a treat we sometmes mash up fresh bananas or peaches for them.  No canned fruit folks...and absolutely no baby food.  For the smaller geckos we use small plastic bottle caps for food and water.  Once they move up to the Exos we use magnetic feed/water ledges, which I highly recommend. 

Temperature :  One of the many great things about keeping crested geckos is these guys can thrive at room temperature, which on average is between 70 and 73 degrees.  We are located in Northwest Indiana and depending on the time of year this temperature range is not all that easy to maintain (on a budget that is).  In the winter months we use flexi-watt under the enclosures as well as a low wattage night bulb to keep the temperatures at acceptable levels.  In the warmer months, when need be, fans are utilized to keep our gecko room at a healthy temperature.  We constantly monitor the temperatures in different parts of the gecko room to be sure temps are where they should be.  Basically, our night time lows in the cooler months hit between 63 and 65 degrees and our geckos are super healthy.  In the warmer months the gecko room heats up to the high 70's at times and everyone has done quite well.  **If you have baby cresties they are much less tolerant of temperature extremes**  **High temps will stress the little ones quick and lead to death**  We keep our babies between 70 and 75 degrees and have had no problems.

Humidity :  Proper humidity is essential to keeping healthy crested geckos, however maintaining a constant high level of humidity is not necessary.  What seems to work best here at HYG is a twice a day misting approach.  We mist the cages once in the morning and then once at night.  This creates fluctuating humidity levels throughout the day/night.  Misting accomplishes a few things, it creates the necessary humidity levels to keep the cresties shedding properly and it also gives them an additional source for drinking water, as they will drink the water beads off of the plants, glass etc.

Handling :  Yet another great aspect of owning crested geckos is their acceptance of being handled.  We handle ours from the time they hatch until they leave our care.  They all have a tendency to want to climb up when they are being held.  What I like to do is offer them the hand in front of hand tread mill for a few minutes then I simply tilt my arm vertical and allow them to perch up on my hand.  If they have settled down, most of the time they will just kinda hang out there.  If they haven't settled down and there is something within hopping distance, they might make a jump for it so always be ready for the hop!  As with any animal, some just don't take to handling at all and will constantly make suicidal leaps from your hand no matter what height they are at.  Bottom line, know your gecko (:
Website Builder